Basic Freshwater Aquarium Principles; Filters, Heaters, Bio-cycling, Live Plants, Feeding, Cleaning and Chemistry
February 3rd 2011 Posted at 1
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AQUARIUM: Start with as large an aquarium as you can afford. There is a very BASIC priciple (this only applies to beginners), that is to have 1-2 inches of NARROW bodied fish per FILTERED aquarium gallon. Goldfish are dirty and fatter, so I would triple this with them (3″). This also only applies to a standard rectangular aquarium. Obviously longer fish need more tank width and length. I would decrease the amount of fish proportional to the gallons in a tall aquarium or hexagon aquarium. Remember, many fish purchased can grow much larger than your original purchase size (ex: goldfish), so keep this in mind too. FILTERS: I always recommend two filters minimum per aquarium for redundancy and for improved biological (denitrifying) filtration. For a small aquarium, a combination of a hang on the back and a sponge filter. Or a sponge filter and an internal power filter. You want to make sure and rinse your sponge or cartridge out baby monitors with camera in used aquarium water to maintain your beneficial bacteria for bio filtration. Other filters of note include canister, wet/dry, under gravel, and fluidized bed. There are four types of filtration: Biological; the removal of nitrogenous waste (ammonia, ECT), which is the most important type. Mechanical; the removal of larger debris (organic and inorganic) before it can go through the nitrogen cycle (organic) Chemical; The removal of chemical contamination via carbon, zeolite or many other products. This becomes less important in a healthy, established aquarium. Germacidal; The use of UVC or ozone to kill disease pathogens and control the Redox potential. HEATER: Most tropical fish do well at a temperature between 76 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. (Discus prefer warmer). Goldfish do not need a heater. I recommend 25 watts for every 10 degrees of ambient temperature you need to raise your aquarium temperature.
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